Favorites-An outlet for all things related to food: 04/04/11

Monday, April 4, 2011

Traditional English Sandwiches

Today's post is about sandwiches. I'm not talking here about baguettes, club sandwiches, baps, or anything Franco-American; instead, I mean the good old fashioned, traditional, quintessentially English, finger sandwich- delicate tea-time treats, made from soft white bread.
This is a disappearing art, which frankly, you're far more likely to encounter these days in a smart hotel somewhere, than in a private drawing room. Legend has it that they were invented by John Montagu, the 4th Earl Sandwich (a member of the Hell Fire Club), who was supposed to have called out to his servant: "My Man, bring me some ham, between two slices of bread!", so that he could carry on gambling at the tables, uninterrupted. Actually, sandwiches were probably in existence before then, but it's true, at least, that he gave his name to the thing.

Here are some of my ideas for a classic set of sandwiches. It's essential that you use a pre-sliced white sandwich loaf, and that you cut them across lengthways- so that they form "fingers". The sandwiches can then be assembled on the serving plate to form a "block" (if that makes sense) and then decorated with watercress on top. I'm not that keen on sandwiches cut into triangles.
First, tomato and watercress. Take two slices of white bread, and cut off the crusts. Spread them with soft unsalted butter and then create the filling from sliced tomatoes (patted dry to remove any moisture) and chopped watercress. Season with salt and pepper and then cut the sandwich carefully into fingers.
Secondly, cucumber. Unsurprisingly, it's the same procedure as the above, except the filling's made from thinly sliced cucumbers (which have been patted dry, and had the skin removed). Season with sea salt and pepper. I love the combination of the delicate cucumber, with the salt, and the butter. Surprisingly refreshing- especially with a cup of near-scalding Earl Grey on a hot summer's afternoon.
Finally, Queen Alexandra's Sandwiches; classic Edwardian sandwiches with a savoury taste. First, make a mustard butter. This is just unsalted butter (left at room temperature), mixed with a mild French Mustard (say, Dijon), and lemon juice. Spread the sandwich loaf slices with the mustard butter. Next, lay thin slices of tongue onto the buttered bread. The filling's made from chicken and mayonnaise. Poach some chicken breasts until cooked, and then mince them up. Bind them in home-made mayonnaise, and flavour it with a few drops of Tabasco sauce. Sprinkle with a new layer of mustard and cress and season with sea salt and black pepper. As before, top off with another layer of white bread, remove the crusts carefully, and cut into fingers. http://lukehoney.typepad.com/the_greasy_spoon/2008/06/traditional-eng.html

Easy Kansas City BBQ Ribs

Sure, I condone cheating. If it’s between cheating a little and never attempting a dish because “the proper way” is too difficult or time consuming, I have no problem with shortcutting it. The result may not be completely authentic, but at the very least, it’ll be a pretty tasty interpretation.

Case in point: Kansas City BBQ ribs -- rubbing, marinating, getting the wood to the perfect temperature, keeping the wood at the perfect temperature, gradually adding more ashed-over wood, slowly cooking the ribs with indirect heat for 5-6 hours, apple juice spritzing at regular intervals, slathering both sides with rich, tomatoey molasses sauce until the meat is so tender, it falls off the bone as the fork comes into proximity. My God! True KC ribs are undeniably sumptuous, and will cause some serious finger licking; but authentically recreating such a masterpiece is not easy and isn’t done by many.

I figured out how to get really tender, flavorful ribs with that lovely inherent smokiness, but without staying up all night holding a juice-filled spray bottle. The method: rub it, smoke it, braise it and glaze it -- that’s it. Plus, if the rubbing & smoking are done the first day, then braising & glazing the next; not only do the tasks seem more manageable, but, the rub & smoke permeate the meat more fully.

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Easy Pulled Pork Sandwich - In the Spirit of North Carolina

‘Cue is the great sacrament of our people. No transubstantiation required. It are what we are.

--North Carolinians

Barbeque is a subject of intense interest and loyalties in North Carolina, a subject about which everyone thinks they’re right and that everyone else wouldn’t know a decent plate of ‘cue from a cue ball.

-- Dennis Rogers

The previous post encouraged culinary cheating -- a quicker, easier way to create traditional, complex dishes. An inappropriate term? Well, the language may be somewhat unrefined, but it’s accurate and the idea is solid. However you say it, it’s much better than gastronomic abstinence. Trying an easier version of a classic dish may not look or taste completely authentic, but it’ll still be delicious, and give a real sense of accomplishment. And, wishing hard won’t get you a pulled pork sandwich.

North Carolina BBQ is serious cuisine with well-guarded secrets and highly debated, detailed methods. The proper way means the whole pig, flavorful rubs, getting the wood to the perfect temperature, keeping the wood at the perfect temperature, gradually adding more ashed-over wood, spritzing down flare-ups, slowly cooking with indirect heat for hours & hours until the pork is so tender, it falls off the bone as the fork comes into proximity. Real North Carolina ‘cue is the South’s magnum opus. ‘Cueing a whole hog isn’t a beginner’s project, but with determination, and a few smaller projects under your belt, it can be done.

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What Women Want for Valentine’s Day

Men hate Valentine’s Day. It’s true. In my profession, I spend most holidays in restaurant kitchens, Valentine’s included, so the occasion has never really been a big deal for me. I had no idea that men hated this day in particular, until last year.

I was thoroughly educated by my fellow chefs (4 men, various ages & situations) of the intense pressure this day brings to every man they know, themselves included. Apparently, the expectation to somehow create, in setting and substance, a perfect, romantic gesture for the likely-to-be-disappointed woman in their life, drives men crazy. For some, to the point of physical illness every February 14th. Huh.

The answer? That’s even more impossible to decode than resolving the issue that “life is short.” However, by using the far-stretched notion that “life is short, melt some cheese” (aka, food fixes all things), it might be interesting to look at it a different way. To decipher what women want, let’s first nix what they don’t want.

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New York’s Best Chocolate Shops: An In-depth Tour with Directions & Everything

Oh the sinfully delicious things they are doing with chocolate on the other coast!

Dark chocolate truffles rolled in smoky paprika; chocolate covered caramel with flowery honey & roasted pine kernels; and chocolate ganache infused with Absinthe or Balsamic. If you were a true chocophile, you’d grab some stylish walking shoes, your “it” bag, and get to Manhattan immediately. I love the eclectic blend of.... pretty much everything in New York, but especially the exquisite, traditional chocolate shops commingling with (& enhancing, really) modern, nonconformist chocolatiers.
Here’s the tour of Manhattan’s best of the best - from top to bottom & north to south, with directions, photos and even a few subway routes. Or bust open a bag of M&M’s & live vicariously through this virtual tour. Even better for the armchair traveler in all of us, every chocolatier on the tour takes orders online.
Side Note: Where multiple stores exist, the most convenient location is highlighted simply to make the tour a little more feet-friendly. But extra information is provided for the truly ravenous chocoholics that feel the need to visit every fabulous shop in the city.

Upper East Side: The first leg of the tour is through the ‘silk stocking’ district, starting north on Lexington and winding down Park Avenue & Madison. The Upper East Side is richly laden with some of the country’s most expensive real estate & haute couture.
Take subway 6 north to 77th – Walk about 3 blocks south on Lexington to Payard.

Payard Bistro– 1032 Lexington Ave, between 73rd & 74th St
This is a grand place to start - not only for the lovely chocolates to take-away, but for the ultra-delicious cappuccinos & pastries. The nice sugar/caffeine rush should last to 61st street, at the very least. Also note, the bistro (to the rear of the pastry shop) serves exceptional French cuisine; and high tea is accompanied by a lovely assortment of sweets & savories.
Transportation options at this point are simple: cab, bus, subway or feet. All four modes can go south on Lexington (one-way street), but consider taking a cab down Park Avenue, it’s one of New York’s little luxuries. (There are no bus routes on Park Ave; perhaps they want to keep the bus riding riff-raff out of the pristine neighborhoods.) Then again, walking is free & lends itself to impromptu photos & store hopping.

Side Side Note: Tom Ford is opening a new shop on 77th & Lexington – Oooooh, can't wait!
From Payard, head west one block to Park Avenue & south 14 blocks to 59th street.
Pierre Marcolini– 485 Park Ave, between 58th & 59th
Marcolini is a Belgian chocolatier of Italian decent. “The same care & attention that goes into making the finest wine is applied to making the finest chocolate, and from bean to bar Pierre is wholly responsible for the product.”He even hangs out with the plantation farmers to source his own beans – now that’s dedication! The shop & chocolates are beautiful. Check out the limited edition chocolate bar (only sold here) made from a rare bean harvested once every seven years.
Fauchon Parisian Boutique– 442 Park Ave @56th St
Fauchon recently closed its doors; yes, I missed it by four days. However, I decided to keep it on the tour so that you could look south, shake your fists at "progress-without-a-conscience" & lament the wanna-be Francophiles in need of happy macarons & confitures. Also, when they open a new store, I’ll just move it on down the list.
From Pierre’s shop, go north a half a block to 59th, east to 3rd Ave & up to the 6th floor of “Bloomy’s, Baby.”
Martine’s Chocolates in Bloomingdale’s– 1000 3rd Ave @59th
Martine Leventer & her staff create beautiful French chocolates before your very eyes. Her specialty is brandied cherries wrapped in dark chocolate ganache & covered in dark chocolate; I’ve heard they are reminiscent of her childhood in France.
*Martine’s Chocolates too - 400 East 82nd Street @1st Avenue (Upper East Side)
Head south to 55th st & then west almost to 5th Ave

Richart Design et Chocolat– 7 East 55th st near 5th Ave
Michel Richart takes chocolate quite seriously – the shop looks more like a modern art gallery and the catalogue is titled “L’Art de la Degustation”. The chocolates are gorgeous & the complex flavor combinations are mind-bending. I purchased two pieces from the Eternelle Mediterranee collection & received a written paragraph about the tasting experience I will have with each piece.

Lunch Break: If a desperate need arises for sustenance, there are several fantastic restaurants in the area: Aquavit @55th & Madison, Oceana @54th & Madison, or La Grenouille @52nd & Madison. But if you can hold out through the next four shops near Rockefeller Center, I would highly recommend Il Buco in NoHo, one of Manhattan’s best-kept secrets. It’s a quick subway ride away & connects the northern chocolate shops with the south end shops.

Rockefeller Center: The second part of the tour continues south to Midtown, the main retail/commercial hub of the city, and Rockefeller Center, home of the infamous ice skating rink & Atlas statue.
From Richart, head east a block to Madison & south a few blocks to 51st.

Leonidas– 485 Madison Ave @51st
Tasty Belgian chocolates flown in weekly. Signature piece: Manon Cafe, a roasted hazelnut praline with fresh coffee cream dipped in white chocolate.
Go a block west to 5th Ave & south 1 1/2 blocks.
Neuhaus Chocolatier- 611 5th Ave, between 49th & 50th – Saks Fifth Avenue, 8th Floor
Fine Belgian chocolates imported regularly. Jean Neuhaus Jr. (the founder’s grandson) was actually the first to create a chocolate filled bonbon & together with his wife created the chocolate box, known as the ballotin.
*2151 Broadway, near 75th street (Upper West Side)
*460 Grand Central Terminal – 42nd & Vanderbilt (Midtown)
Not even a half a block away on 5th Ave is the next stop.

Teuscher Chocolates– 620 5th Ave, between 49th & 50th, Rockefeller Center
Charming Swiss chocolate shop with beautiful Champagne truffles flown in weekly. Check out the whimsical fantasy chocolates & darling boxes.
*25 East 61st, near Madison Ave – flagship store opened in 1977 (Upper East Side)
Right around the corner is the next stop.

La Maison du Chocolat– 30 Rockefeller Plaza, right around the corner from Teuscher
This shop is my standard chocolate stop each visit to Manhattan. Very French chocolates in an elegant shop bathed in chocolate tones. This location has a few tables & chairs toward the back where they serve espresso & small French pastries; the other location actually has a lovely tea room in the back of the shop.
*1018 Madison Ave bet 78th & 79th (Upper East Side)

Scoot back on the subway @51st & Lexington. Ride train #6 southbound to Bleecker St @Lafayette. Go north a block on Lafayette & turn right on Bond.
Lunch:Il Buco – 47 Bond St, between Bowery & Lafayette
I promise you won’t be disappointed! This European antique/craft shop turned Italian trattoria has amazing food, wine & ambience. It’s a beautiful place to eat.

SoHo: The third part of the chocolate tour winds around SoHo, once filled with industrial spaces & small factories, is now a very popular place for fashion, art & superb architecture.
Travel a few blocks west to Broadway, head south four blocks to Spring, and another two blocks to Greene. But the easiest way to avoid crowds & sore-er feet is to get back on the subway; train #6 goes south to Spring.

Vosges Haut Chocolat– 132 Spring st near Greene
The name says it all – haut chocolat; and the confections are definitely couture. The flavor combinations will blow your mind – Rooster truffle with dark chocolate & Taleggio cheese, Wattleseed & milk chocolate, Quandong with rosella powder, and Absinthe. Check out the chocolate of the month club – definitely worth looking into.
Walk west on Spring for 3 blocks to Thompson.

Kee’s Chocolates– 80 Thompson st near Spring
Kee’s boutique chocolate shop has received a lot of press, and rightly so. Kee Ling Tong, a French Culinary graduate, hand makes beautiful truffles in her tiny shop with very fresh ingredients like lychees & lemongrass. Other flavors I thought were delicious: balsamic, black pepper, and the creme brulee.
Walk south on Thompson for one block to Broome; head east about a block & a half, just past Broadway.

MarieBelle Fine Treats & Chocolates– 484 Broome St between Wooster & W. Broadway
This is absolutely my new favorite chocolate shop! Darling & exotic from the decor & music to the boxes & of course the chocolates. Decorative chocolates include flavors of saffron, cardamom & earl grey. The cacao bar in the back is an eclectic blend of tables & chairs with wild mirrors & the most fabulous chandelier.

I recommend the Aztec hot chocolate.
Head west on Broome about 4 blocks to Avenue of the Americas. From here you could walk or take a bus a few blocks north to King, then walk the remaining few blocks west to Hudson. Or take a cab – at this point it’s worth every penny.
Jacques Torres Chocolate– 350 Hudson @King, 1 block south of Houston
Watch the team @Jacques Torres go from bean to chocolate bar using restored vintage equipment. It’s a lively place to visit. They sell hot chocolate and cookies as well as moderately priced chocolates – and don’t forget to check out Torres’ cookbooks.
Chelsea (the last stop): Speckled with charming brownstones and modern art galleries, Chelsea is a really nice place to walk around.
From Torres, head north a block to Houston & east a block to Varick/7th Ave; take subway train #1 north to 14th St. Walk west a block to 8th and south a few blocks to Jane.
Chocolate Bar – 48 Eighth street near Jane
Definitely going for the young, urban crowd, the Chocolate Bar has retro packaging and hip, cosmopolitan truffle flavors like marshmallow with caramel, graham cracker & chocolate; the Elvis; and Pumpkin Spice.
Congratulations! On your delicious acquisitions and stamina. You deserve a fabulous dinner – I highly recommend a short cab ride to Po- 31 Cornelia St, between Bleecker & W. 4th in Greenwich Village. Po is a cozy Italian restaurant with a nice staff, real nice food & a nice wine list – it’s niiiiice! http://convivial.blogs.com/my_weblog/2007/03/new_yorks_best_.html

Pickles (just beautiful picture)

Pickles... Notice the orange ? First time I ever see that. http://community.livejournal.com/picturing_food/5993447.html

Cinnamon Buns

I have a confession. I have a big problem. A compulsion.

When people come to visit us, I cook a lot of food. I mean, I really tend to go overboard. Yes, it's an act of love, and pure, tail-wagging excitement that they're visiting. But the problem is that I get a titch obsessed. There is always extensive planning that happens. For DAYS. And really, life needn't be that complex. I should really learn to simplify.

A simple joy in my life are cinnamon rolls. I think that's the case for most people. They're something that can really wow guests for any sort of breakfast or brunch. But these 'simple joys' become complicated if you try to make them the day of--they take at least 4 hours. And I dunno about you, but I sure as hell don't get up at 4am for any guests, no matter how much I love them.

The good news is that you can make these sweet beauties the night before (without baking) and then bake them up fresh in the morning. If you have even less time, you can bake them, glaze them, wrap with saran wrap and aluminum foil, and freeze them. This is what I'm doing for my guests who will be coming down on Friday night. My hope is to pull them out on Saturday morning, put them in a pan covered with foil, pop them in the oven at 350 for 20 minutes and have ooey gooey buns in no time flat. Simple!

Cinnamon Buns (slightly modified from "The Bread Baker's Apprentice" by Peter Reinhart)
-6 1/2 tablespoons white sugar
-1 teaspoon salt
-5 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
-3 tablespoons powdered milk
-1 cup warm water (approximately 115 degrees)
-2 teaspoons active dry yeast
-3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
-1 large egg, lightly beaten
-1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
-1/2 cup brown sugar mixed with 1 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon
-2 cups powdered sugar
-1/2 teaspoon vanilla
-Approximately 3 tablespoons warm milk
-Chopped pecans to top

1. Cream together sugar, salt, and butter on medium-high speed in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment (or by hand).

2. Dissolve dry milk and yeast in 1 cup of warm water. Let stand for 5 minutes until bubbly. Add to the creamed mixture, along with the flour. Mix to combine. Whip in the egg and lemon zest. Mix on low speed until the dough forms a ball. You may need to add more flour to make the dough form a ball--add a little (~1 tablespoon) at a time until this happens.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 12 minutes. The dough should be silky and supple, tacky but not sticky. Oil a mixing bowl and place the dough inside, turning to coat. Cover with saran wrap and ferment at room temperature for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

4. Mist the counter with spray oil, transfer dough to counter. Flour your rolling pin to prevent sticking. Roll the dough out into a rectangle that is 12" tall by 14" long. Pour the brown sugar-cinnamon mixture onto the dough, pressing in lightly. Roll the dough away from you, like you're rolling a cigarette. You may want to press the seam together. Place the log seam-side down on the counter and cut into pieces. For large rolls, you can cut into 8-10 pieces.

5. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silpat mat. Put the pieces on the baking sheet, placing them 1/2" away from eachother (close, but not touching). Spray with spray oil, cover loosely with plastic wrap. Proof at room temperature 75-90 minutes, or until the pieces are or are nearly touching eachother. At this point, you can put them in the fridge for up to 2 days, pulling the pan out to proof 3-4 hours before baking.

6. Preheat the oven to 350 with rack in the middle of the oven. Bake for 20-30 minutes, or until buns are golden-brown. Cool the buns on the pan for about 10 minutes. While they're cooling, mix up your fondant glaze icing by placing the powdered sugar and vanilla in a bowl. Add the warm milk 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking until it reaches the right consistency--thick and smooth, but able to be dripped without too much effort. When the buns are warm, but not hot, sprinkle chopped pecans in the crevices of the rolls, then use a fork to drizzle the glaze across the tops.

-Makes 8-10 cinnamon buns

Verdict: Ridiculously amazing. Ridiculously easy to make. The buns are soft and tender all the way through, with just a hint of a crusty outside. The lemon zest adds a uniquely delightful twist to an otherwise ordinarily flavored dough. The sugary-cinnamony innards are not unlike what you find at Cinnabon. In short: Awesome. SO much better than my last attempt at cinnamon rolls.

http://prettypeasrecipes.blogspot.com/2011/04/bba-cinnamon-buns.html

hershey chocolate world

We took a 2-hour coach ride to Hershey, Pennsylvania. As the name “Hershey” suggests, the town is built by Milton S. Hershey, the world famous chocolate maker. He believed that workers who were treated fairly and who lived in a comfortable, pleasant environment would be better workers. Accordingly, he set upon building an infrastructure to take care of the people who were employed by his company, drawing up plans for a model community housing for executives and ordinary workers alike, schools, churches, theme parks, recreational facilities and a trolley system.
World’s largest Hershey bar.

Hershey’s Chocolate World: Admission is free!

Crowd rushing in as soon as Hershey opened for the tour.

Queuing up for the tour ride.

Our chocolate tour began in the “tropical rain forest” where cocoa beans grow. We learnt that as the beans are harvested, they are transported across the ocean to America, where they are delivered to THE SWEETEST PLACE ON EARTH —Hershey, Pennsylvania. Then, the cocoa beans continued through a simulated HERSHEY’S Chocolate Factory. We could see, feel, and hear the processes that deliciously transformed the beans into milk chocolate.

We bought a lot of chocolates and candies from the Market Place shop that sells anything and everything HERSHEY’S.
Popular and affordable Hershey’s chocolate gifts for the loved ones.

http://travelerfolio.com/hersheys-chocolate-world-tour-pennsylvania/

Hershey’s Chocolate World

by Chris Bibey

in Destinations

If you are a chocolate lover it does not get much better than visiting Hershey Chocolate World. With so much to see and do, it is easy to spend an entire day at this attraction without ever getting bored. And of course, you will have plenty of opportunities to sample chocolates along the way. Does it get any better than that?
First things first, when you go to Hershey Chocolate World you are going to learn the ins and outs of how their chocolate is made. The tour shows you the entire process from start to finish. Even though you may be disappointed when the tour ends, the free chocolate that you receive will be sure to bring a smile back to your face.
Another exciting part of Hershey Chocolate World is the movie theater in which 3D movies are shown. They are based around the history of Hershey Chocolate including its founder, Milton Hershey, where the company got its start, and much more. This experience would be exciting as a regular movie, but with 3D technology it is even better.
Many people consider a visit to Hershey Park the best part of their visit. This is an amusement park within the attraction that features rides, shows, and the ability to meet with some of the famous company characters.
Before scheduling your trip to Hershey Chocolate World be sure to check on the hours of operation for your desired date; they change throughout the year.
In addition to the regular displays, there are always special attractions available to visitors as well. Some of them include: Reese’s Racing Car display, Hershey’s Happiness Hour, Halloween in Hershey, and Christmas in Hershey among others.
Hershey Chocolate World has a lot to offer people of all ages. You will have a great time learning how the chocolate is made, visiting the many attractions, and taking on the rides at the amusement park.